It's All Greek to Me

Around the corner from my office in DC there's a tiny storefront restaurant called, quite simply, "Greek Deli". It would be easy to miss, were it not for the long serpentine queue stretching all the way to the pavement, then turning 90-degrees and continuing on for a good distance more. Unsuspecting pedestrians are often corralled by the hungry ranks, eyeing the potential interlopers with suspicion as they push through towards their intended destination. You might think foul weather would dampen the resolve of the masses, and sometimes it does. But there are days when the promise of a carton of lush avgolemano soup is the only thing that gets you through the dull, grey drudgery of life in the city. And so you wait.

You take the full hour for lunch, and you spend most of that hour outside in the drizzle, the collar of your wool-coat hiked up and itching your neck because you left your scarf at home again. By the time you make it to the door, your coat smells, and you hate every person ahead of you. You stare at them through the stenciled door, they're smug and cozy, and also idiots. You didn't think this was possible, but you actually hate them more as they bumble through their orders.

And then, the door opens. A rush of warm air, saturated in olive oil hits you, and suddenly the last 40-minutes spent shivering in the cold are forgotten. The space is packed tight to the counter with customers. Behind the glass stands Kostas Fostieris. He looks like the captain of an old dory, with his fisherman's cap, leathery skin, and a beard as full as his belly. You watch him age through the pictures and news-clips crowding the walls. You're shocked by how little has changed. Aside from the color of his beard and the style of the suits, the scene around you perfectly mirrors the ones on display. Does he notice it too? Finally, it's your turn. But you were distracted by the photos and the baklava. "MEEEEEESSSS! MEEEEESS?" barks Kostas, and you realize that you haven't decided what to order. Now you're the one staring into the case of steaming lamb and salmon and brisket and spanakopita and moussaka and orzo and white beans and green beens like a tongue-tied nincompoop. The woman behind you sighs heavily, and someone from the back of the shop hisses "you've gotta be kidding."  Suddenly you're very warm, you blurt out a list of six different items. Because overcompensation? Azzad is at the the register, more relaxed than his employer, he sneaks you a wink and a smile along with your giant white sack of food.

By the time you make it back out into the rain you're late for work. You take the shortcut through the alley, and a driver blares his horn at you for blocking his way. That girl across the hall gives you the stink eye as you slink into your office, and you can't really blame her. The conference call you were supposed to be on has already started and you hope no one notices the 'bloop' announcing your arrival. They say something about slide five, you mute your line. You, are very, very hungry. You rip open the sack, it's oil-stained now and making an even bigger mess of your desk. You start to ask yourself why you keep going there anyway, but the first bite of warm bread shuts you up before you can finish the thought.

The below is my rendition of one of my very favorite dishes from the Greek Deli. I've added kale to make the dish a bit more substantial, and would not be against throwing a fried egg on top for good measure. Serve with crusty bread.

Rustic Gigantes Beans with Kale

---

3/4 lb. dried large white beans

1/2 c olive oil

1/2 large sweet onion, diced

4 cloves garlic, diced

1/2 c white wine

2 t fresh dill

1 16 oz can good Italian tomatoes, whole

2 c kale, chopped

2 oz Greek feta

Cook beans in salted water according to your preference until just shy of done. For me, this means a "power soak," followed by about 20 min. in the pressure cooker.

While beans are cooking, prepare tomato sauce. Pour tomatoes (including their juices) into a large bowl, and squish to break up into a nearly uniform consistency. Heat 1/4 c olive oil in a large sauté pan, cook onion until translucent, add garlic and cook 2 more minutes. Add wine and tomatoes, fill can half full with water to rinse out any additional juice and add that as well. Cook over high heat until reduced by almost half (you can always add water if it gets too concentrated, sauce should still be a bit soupy). Add beans, kale and dill, and season to taste, then stew until beans are tender. Stir in additional 1/4 c olive oil, and top with crumbled feta.

Fusion-y

It snowed last night in Denver. For those who don't live here, the combination of sunshine and a blanket of powder turns the landscape into a sparkling wonderland. Cascades of natural glitter rain down from overhangs and branches and the sheer brightness of things is otherworldly. Looking out the window my eyes open wide, straining to take it all in.

Days like today call for cookin. Food that'll stand up to the day, put hair on your chest, and take you home. This recipe was an attempt to simultaneously take both Premal and me back. The addition of spicy Indian chili power adds a kick to this traditional Hungarian recipe, and paneer stands up beautifully to the rich gravy. My nokedli--or spätzle--are multi-grain to mimic roti, the whole-wheat flatbread served with most meals in India. Club soda keeps the dumplings light and fluffy, despite the heavier flour.

Parikás Paneer with Multi-grain Spätzle

4 T. (plus more for frying) butter
1 lg. yellow onion (diced)
4 cloves garlic (diced)
4 T. sweet Hungarian paprika
1 T. spicy Indian chili powder or 1 t. red chili flakes (optional)
2 c. vegetable broth
1/2 c. sour cream
12 oz. mushrooms (sliced)
8 oz. paneer (1/2 inch cubes)

Sautee onion and garlic in butter until translucent. Add paprikas, and stir til roux forms. Gradually add the broth, stirring all the while, contents should resemble a thin gravy. Sir in sour cream. Fry mushrooms and paneer in batches, making sure not to crowd the pan, until golden. Add to gravy, season to taste, and serve over spätzle.

For spätzle

3/4 c club soda
2 eggs
1/2 t salt
1 c. white flour
1 c. whole wheat flour

spätzle maker or small cutting board and medium knife

Set large pot to boil. Mix soda, eggs and salt in medium bowl. Gradually add flour. Mix well. Dough should be very soft and sticky (almost a batter). Let rest ten minutes. Stir.

Here's the tricky part. If you don't happen to own a spätzle maker (but really, doesn't EVERYONE have one?) you'll need to make these dumples the old fashioned way. Take the cutting board and the knife and dip them in the boiling water. Place a large clump of dough on the board and thinly spread part of it all the way to one end of the board. Dip this end and the knife in the boiling water again. Then, using the back of the knife, scrape off thin noodles into the boiling water, re submerging knife and board along the way to prevent sticking. Let dumples boil for several minutes. Strain and toss with a little olive oil. (If this doesn't make sense, this video demonstrates the process pretty well--even if it's in German).  

Life hack your risotto

I hate rice. You can ask Premal, it brings him great sadness that at best I refrain from eating the fluffy white stuff, and at worst I basically refuse to cook it. I'm like the cat in the hat guy from Green Eggs and Ham. I do not like rice,with my curry, I do not like it in a hurry. I will not eat it in a soup, I will not eat things that resemble choleric poop... You get the picture.

I do have an exception to my "no rice" rule, unfortunately--though perhaps predictably--it's a labor intensive one. Risotto. But between me and these creamy waves of grain lays a lot of stirring, and grating, and stirring, and many bubbling pots, and also stirring.  Consequently, risotto has been relegated to a column in my diet labeled "strictly restaurant fare." But a recent craving (bolstered by some virtual encouragement from my kitchen-philosophy-crush Mark Bittman), and somehow all of my rice/risotto related rules began to resemble mere suggestions.  So, I was off to the kitchen to stir my life away. Luckily, the results were really, really good, and along the way I discovered a few tricks that may just make risotto a staple in my kitchen....

Potato, egg and onion salad with honey mustard dressing

Last week our wonderful neighbors brought over a carton of fresh eggs from their exuberant little herd of chickens. Momo wanted to make sure the eggs were used for something which would feature their unrivaled goodness. 

This recipe is perfect for summer. Super satisfying, fresh and healthy. I think it did the trick :-)

You'll need:

• Russet Potatoes
• Onion(s)
• Butter (salted, of course)
• White wine
• Fresh Garlic
• Lettuce
• Eggs (one per person)
• Mustard
• Honey
• Balsamic
• EVOO
• Salt
• Cheese (either white cheddar or Gorgonzola)
• Fresh Pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut potatoes into long, thin wedges. Arrange them on a baking sheet; drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake for 30-35 minutes (flip to other side after 20 minutes, or boil first for faster baking). Slice onions and place in hot pan. Cook in butter and sugar until golden brown. Reduce heat and cover in white wine. Cook until liquid is gone. Cut garlic into chips and cook on stove-top (in butter or EVOO) until light brown. Chop lettuce and set aside. You can either fry the eggs, poach them, or use my special method for fry-poaching (e.g. crack egg into hot pan, fry bottom, pour water in pan, cover with lid, and wait until top is cooked). For the dressing, mix equal parts balsamic and EVOO with at least one tablespoon of honey and one tablespoon of mustard. Add salt and fresh pepper to taste. Remove potatoes from the oven and let cool, at least a little. Chop or crumble cheese. Combine lettuce, onions, garlic, potatoes, and cheese in a bowl. Place an egg on top of each serving and drizzle dressing over the top.

      

Karpas salad

I appreciate a good cry. I've indulged in them in taxis, at work, on the toilet, and that's just in the past few weeks. I'm pretty sure there are some sweet health benefits that come from exercising the good ol' lacrimal glads, so why not honor tears at the table. The Seder table no less, where a lot of us will be close to tears anyway due to the fact that we've already been there for 4 hours, and all we really want is a big crusty piece of bread--or maybe cake. Yeah, probably cake.

Anyway. My salad, inspired by the karpas--or herbs dipped in salt water in remembrance of tears our people wept while they were slaves in Egypt--is actually nothing to weep over. That is unless they are tears of joy. This salad is delicious. And pretty. So, cry for our people* this Passover, but not for your belly, 'cause we got yo back.

KarpasSalad

•          1 bunch curly parsley
•          1 bunch flat-leaf parsley
•          2 cups arugula
•          1 bunch white radishes
•          ½ cup dried cherries (chopped)
•          ¼ cup quick preserved lemons (recipe below)
•          Olive oil
•          Honey
•          Greek yogurt

Remove parsley leaves from stems, wash and dry all greens. Wash and dry radishes, then using a mandolin, slice them suuuuuper thin. Throw all of that in a bowl. Throw there cherries in there too. Separate lemon chunks from lemon juices, saving both. Give the lemon chunks a quick rinse under cold water, and dry them. Now, carefully, throw them in your bowl. Take some of your saved salty/sour/sugary lemon juices and mix them with some olive oil. Taste. If it’s good, that’s dressing. If it’s too sour add some honey, too salty add some yogurt and/or more oil, basically, adjust to taste.

Who’s crying now?    

Quick Preserved Lemons

•          Lemon
•          Equal parts salt and sugar

Cut the lemon into small pieces (about the size of my pinky-tip, which means, I don’t know, ½ x ¼ inch strips?), and place in a bowl (or jar if you’re planning to save some for later). Add the sugar and salt, with 2 tablespoons each for every lemon used. Let sit for at least an hour, and as long as a day before using or moving to the fridge for storage.  

*This salad, while well suited for the occasion, is totally not confined to pesach consumption. In fact, its deliciousness is constant regardless of when or by whom it is eaten!  

Anatomy of a Breakfast

Orange Fennel Salad

Source

The other night I was charged with making a salad for dinner. We didn't have any normal salad stuff, so I scrounged around and tried to figure something out with the green foods that were available. I'm pleased to report that the result was quite scrumptious! (And this is coming from an avid vegetarian [read: I eat a lot of salad....]). 

I give you:

Orange Fennel Salad 

(It's so good. For the realz.)

Ingredients:

Fresh fennel

Oranges 

(tangelos are a really good substitute)

Cilantro 

(good substitutions include: romaine, arugula, lemon greens, fresh spinach, or almost any other green you can get your hands on)

Garlic cloves

Balsamic vinegar

Olive oil

Honey

Garlic salt

Pepper

Mustard 

You'll want equal parts oranges, fennel, and cilantro (I'll leave that math up to you). Peel your oranges and slice them through the cross section (like this--except without the peel). Slice your fennel in long, narrow strips. Chop your cilantro and throw it into a bowl with the fennel and oranges. In a small pan, heat up some olive oil. Slice garlic cloves into 1 inch lengths. Add to olive oil and let brown. In a small jar, combine equal parts olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Add approximately 1 tablespoon honey, 1 teaspoon mustard, a dash of pepper and a sprinkle of salt.  Add the garlic to the fresh ingredients and drizzle everything with your dressing and--voila!

   

And on the topic of your hips...

Here is one of my favorite snacks.  It is made with sushi rice, inari wrappers (dried tofu, soaked in this wonderful sweet, savory mixture of yum.), nori (roasted seaweed -- for this one, I used strips that you can probably get at the same asian market as the inari for 2 to 4 bucks for a few hundred.  Great snacks too!)  Inari wraps are Japanese, but can usually be found at Korean or general Asian markets.  A package with forty cost me about $8.

8 Inari wrappers (they should be rectangular, and open like a pita cut in half)
about 2 cups of cooked white or brown sushi rice
1 tbsp rice vinegar
1 pinch sugar*
1 pinch salt*
8 nori strips

Mix vinegar, sugar and salt together.  Let stand until sugar and salt dissolve.  Next, add seasoned vinegar to white or brown sushi rice.  Mix well in a slashing motion, trying to avoid smashing the rice or cutting up the grains.  Next, pick up an inari wrapper, and gently open the opening.  Start stuffing rice, until the corners are filled and the wrapper is stuffed, but not over flowing with rice.  The wrapper should be a little bit elastic.  Pull the wrapper back enough that you can put a fourth of the inari strip next to the wall of rice.  Repeat on other side of wrapper.  It should look like you have a little inari basket at the end.  Makes about 4 servings.  Just to warn you, I could eat all 8 myself so you might want to make a few extras!.  

*If you're using seasoned rice vinegar, no need to make the vinegar dilution.  The vinegar already has salt and sugar added to it.

Stuffed French Toast

Here is the recipe for the "Stuffed French Toast" I made on Monday. It was a little sweet-probably because I added extra sugar...oops!--but the masses seemed to enjoy it! The recipe is taken (almost directly) from MarthaStewart.com, so any grievances about it can be taken up with her... :)

Image courtesy of  Food Blogga

Serves 4

• 1 loaf bread (about 4 inches in diameter), cut into eight 1-inch-thick slices
• 3 tablespoons apricot jam
• 1/4 cup (2 ounces) cream cheese, room temperature
• 2 large eggs
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 to 2 tablespoons butter
• Pure maple syrup, for serving (optional)

Using a paring knife, cut a horizontal slit in each bread slice to form a pocket. In a bowl, blend jam and cream cheese. Spoon 1 tablespoon mixture into each pocket.

In a shallow bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, and cinnamon until combined. In a large nonstick skillet, melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium-low heat. Lay half the bread slices in egg mixture, letting them soak 5 seconds on each side.

Place slices in skillet; cook until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Repeat with remaining bread, adding more butter to skillet if needed. If desired, serve French toast with syrup, whipped cream, bananas foster or fresh fruit.

Read more at Marthastewart.com: Apricot-Stuffed French Toast - Martha Stewart Recipes 

Breakfast In Space

The space was actually our living room in Denver (where I"ll be hanging until my medical stuff gets sorted out) but we DID have a real, live ASTRONAUT c/o Four. Actually, he's not an astronaut yet, but he's got a pretty good chance of it -- at least one in a hundred, which is a million times better than one in a hundred million, like the rest of us.

Luckily, the ASTRONAUT didn't have to rely on his space skills to enjoy an out of this world brunch, created by Four and Brother S (whose chosen nick name, while apt, might seem inappropriate in this context, so we'll just call him Brother S).

So Brother S made two ENORMOUS loaves of challah -- probably four pounds each. Four proceeded to stuff them with all kinds of delights, coat them in eggs and cook them to perfection.  Our stuffed french toast was accompanied by the fluffiest of whipped creams: the first whipping wasn't adequate, so Four went back to whip them 'til it behaved.  (If we're lucky, four might share the recipe on Thursday!)

Finally, Brothers Z and S brueled grapefruit which I didn't eat, but had rave reviews by all diners present.

The total of these parts was an other worldly experience of pure, culinary pleasure.  

Your Weekly Yumple

The darndest things happen in New York City.  Y man and I were in Eataly when I ran into -- ok, ok, I chased down, celebrity chef Jamie Oliver, aka the naked chef.  He wasn't naked, but he was very nice and we chatted about food, TED, and a number of other things for 10 or 15 minutes.  I was quite upset with Y man because after egging me on, HE DIDN"T TAKE A PICTURE!!!  Oh well...  He does many other wonderful things, so I will only hold the tiniest little grudge.  He he he.  


In the spirit of Mr. Oliver, here is a very simple recipe that is a perfect yumple for the holiday season -- it's fresh enough that it doesn't weigh you down but substantive enough to make a filling meal.  I like it better if you roast the cauliflower before with olive oil, thyme and a little sugar or honey.

1 cauliflower, roasted
2 balls fresh mozzarella
1 small whole wheat boule
Olive oil
Salt, pepper and grushed garlic (optional)

Preheat a sandwich press.  Cut bread to about 8 1/2 inch thick slices.  Press garlic and add to olive oil with a pinch of salt and pepper.  Brush one side with olive oil mixture.  Cover four pieces with mustard.  Place slices of fresh mozzarella on the other 4 pieces.  Place cauliflower florets on top of cheese.  Put in sandwich press or paninni press until cheese melts.  Serve hot with butternut squash soup or something else yummy.

My consolation photo outside of Eataly  

Latkes, Maccabee Style or Smash Fries with Gruyere Cheese, Mint Cilantro Basil Salad and Apricot Catsup

Smash Fries with Gruyere Cheese, mint cilantro basil salad and Apricot Catsup OR Real Latkes

Note: This recipe is easiest when made with a sandwich press of some sort. Just press potatoes til they are about 1/4 inch. I think it would also be wonderful with sliced sweet potatoes. If you use yams, I would suggest substituting Rosey Goat, Drunken Goat or some other hard goat cheese instead of the gruyere.

I have taken to calling them the "real" latkes because there was a real lack of oil when Judah Maccabee did his thing. So why do we use so much when we're frying our latkes and donuts? I don't know if they would have had access to the preserves or salad, but I think the entire Maccabee clan would dig these.

6 small potatoes (I mean bite sized. Think little fingerling or tiny yellow potatoes)

1 tsp olive oil

1 clove garlic

6 mint leaves

1 slice gruyere cheese

Catsup

¼ onion chopped very finely

1 clove garlic

1 tbs olive oil

½ cup apricot preserves

1 tbsp White wine vinegar

Salad

30 mint leaves

1 small bunch cilantro

20 big basil leaves

¼ onion

Bake potatoes in the oven for 12 minutes or the microwave for three – until they're soft and some of the liquid has come out. While they cook, combine oil and garlic. When they are done, remove from oven or microwave, coat in oil and garlic, place on pan or grilling device and cover with mint leaf and small piece of cheese (the cheese should cover the mint leaf). Using a sandwich press, press down firmly on potatoes til they smash. Leave until the cheese and potato are crispy. In another pan, sauté onions and garlic in oil til caramelized. Reduce heat and add preserves followed by vinegar. Stir constantly on medium heat and remove after 4 minutes. Let cool. Chop cilantro, basil, mint and onion very finely. Mix together. Serve potatoes atop the salad with catsup on the side or drizzled on top. Leave salt and pepper on the table for people to use as they wish.

Thanksgiving Tastes Good

Roasted beets topped with garlic pecan balsamic butter and chevre

Herbed focaccia topped with roasted pine-nuts, pumpkin, and chevre

Brandied fairytale pumpkin pie with chestnut cream

Spiced apple cupcakes with caramel buttercream frosting

Foccacia with Jarlsberg cheese and candied lemon

Pecan pie

Chocolate mousse torte

Coconut pumpkin pie with a coconut graham cracker crust

Apple pie

and so, so much more.

A Cheese Sampler

Our family has a distinct proclivity for cheese. Of all varieties.

Example A)

Random Cowboy Picture

Example B)

Matching Dirndls

Example C)

Irish Fondue

This mind-blowing innovation was the brainchild of Three, and flawlessly executed by Brother S, (when a shortage of Emmentaler kinked his plans for a traditional Swissstravaganza). It is absolutely perfect for this fresh, cozy season, especially when paired with Stayman apples from the farmers' market and a long afternoon romping through leaves. Yum!

• Grate ~2lb aged Irish cheddar and toss with 2 Tbs. all purpose flour.
• Gently warm two bottles of dark beer (we used a spicy little brew called Black Chocolate Ale, but my teetotaling palate has a hunch anything rich and bubbly would be delish. Except, perhaps, root beer. Don't try that.)
• When the beer is steaming hot but not yet boiling, slowly add the floured cheese, one scant handful at a time, constantly stirring with a wooden spoon in a figure-8 pattern, watching carefully to ensure the fondue doesn't boil.
• When all that cheesey goodness is incorporated and you have an irresistibly creamy vat and you imagine it couldn't possibly get any more delicious, swirl in a generous Tablespoon of pure maple syrup. Oh my.

Serve this up with fresh pumpernickel, assertive gherkins and the very best apples you can find.

No, I am not kissing that marvelous morsel of cheesy-pickle awesome,

but only because it didn't occur to me in the moment to do so.

Dinner in a pumpkin

Recently, I visited some of my dearest friends. We celebrated with a little dinner party in a pumkin. There is a formal recipe, but we didn't really use it. What we came up with was a spicy, savory, nummy pumpkin full of yum. Here are some pictures!

PUMPKINS!!!

J Scootus and the persimmon after scolding me for opening the oven, yet again to check on my little squash

"This can't be right" Mrs. S. and brioche dough

Monogrammednapkins

Nauseatingly adorable and sweet newly weds Mr. and Mrs. S.

Geniuses J&J

"I just don't know, Mrs. S..."

Pumkin conference -- is the rice cooked or isn't it?

Strawberry, snow pea and chevre on fresh greens with candied almonds and persimmon dressing

gingered yams and roasted pumpkin seeds

Dining table and minted lemonaid